BMF VIDEO: We Are The World

Sure, this rendition of We Are the World from last night’s Bermuda Music Festival could’ve ended a bit sooner but at the time no one, including myself, really wanted the superstars onstage to stop singing. It was just that good. Written by Michael Jackson and Lionel Ritchie and produced by Quincy Jones—last night honored with an African Diaspora Lifetime Achievement Award by the Premier of Bermuda—the anthem was sung by none other than Kenny Rogers, James Ingram, Michael McDonald, Patti Austin and Gita Blakeney with backup provided by the soulful Bermuda Mass Choir. All in all an uplifting ending to a stellar show. The festival’s final performance kicks off tonight at 6pm with Grammy Award winner John Legend and a special performance of Thriller by the Warwick gombey troupe (otherwise known as Bermudian folk dancers). Sounds like a perfect Halloween night to me.

BMF: Wyclef Rocked. Badu, Not So Much.

If my pounding head and still-ringing ears are any indication I think I had a really good time at the Bermuda Music Festival last night. Blame it all on Wyclef. The multi-platinum recording artist kept the crowd jumping until 1:30 a.m., an electrifying performance that included old-school Fugees hits (Fug-Gee-Laa), Wyclef classics (Stayin’ Alive, Gone Til November), and Bob Marley covers (No Woman No Cry, I Shot the Sheriff, Redemption Song). Want a taste of what last night was like? Check out this 50-second YouTube video. I guess yesterday’s workout at the Fairmont Southampton paid off. Holy energy Batman! Unfortunately the same can’t be said of Erykah Badu, who lulled the crowd with her smooth, sultry voice. Neither of which was a bad thing, but the two performances couldn’t have been more different. With her own brand of laid-back neo-soul, Badu was the potatoes next to Wyclef’s meat (wow, did I just write that? I must’ve had a rougher night than I thought!). And as I suspected, Naturally 7 was indeed the real deal, as the soulful septet blew away the crowd with their R&B and acapella stylings. Tonight’s lineup: James Just Once Ingram, Michael I Keep Forgettin' McDonald, and the one and only Kenny Through the Years Rogers. Call it a hunch, but something tells me I won't be dipping into my bottle of Excedrin tomorrow morning.

Working Out With Wyclef!

It's not everyday that a multi-platinum recording artist is working out in the same gym you are but I guess crazier things have happened during my time here in Bermuda (eating fish sandwiches alongside a now-adult Golden Child in June is certainly one that comes to mind). Anyhow, I was testing out the facilities at the Fairmont Southampton—for the record as a guest of one of its members—when in walked the one and only Wyclef Jean, which of course makes sense since the hotel is hosting most of the performers at this weekend's Bermuda Music Festival. Besides doing some bicep curls and a few reps on the bench press, he and his entourage of two tossed around the medicine ball in preparation for tonight's show. Wyclef is officially pumped and that officially makes two of us.

Bermuda Music Festival: DAY ONE

The stage is set and the stars have arrived, so welcome to the first official day of the Bermuda Music Festival at the Royal Naval Dockyard. The three-day event kicks off tonight with performances by multi platinum musician Wyclef Jean, neo-soul diva Erykah Badu, and Naturally 7, a groovy accapella-meets-R&B act recently discovered by Quincy Jones himself. Never heard of them? Well you will soon. Check out this YouTube video of the soulful septet beat-boxing Phil Collins’ In the Air Tonight on a Paris subway. Amazing stuff. Keep an eye out for the Parisian lady at the four-minute mark. If that’s not genuine love I don’t know what is. Best of all, the concert will be held at Bermuda’s historic Keep Yard for the first time in its fourteen-year history (that’s it in the picture above, on a particularly cloudy day). Concertgoers will enjoy the show from the grass, alongside the limestone structure in the foreground, but that’s just not any ‘ol pile of bricks. Called the Ordnance Building and constructed in 1850, this vaulted-ceiling magazine once stored 4,860 kegs of gunpowder for the British Royal Navy and impressions of the powder keg racks remain on the non-sparking, bitumen floor to this day. If you’re anywhere near Dockyard, it makes for an interesting visit. As does the recently renovated Commissioners House and the rest of the Bermuda Maritime Museum. But I’ll save that for another time. This weekend it’s all about the music.

Now Playing: Bermuda Music Festival

Bermuda may be a small island in the middle of the Atlantic but it sure does see it’s fair share of star-studded events. Last month I told you about how Mary J. Blige and Robin Thicke rocked the National Stadium, a killer concert that had the crowd dancing in its seats. This month welcomes an event of an entirely higher magnitude: The three-day Bermuda Music Festival starring Quincy Jones, John Legend, Wyclef Jean, Erykah Badu, Michael McDonald, Kenny Rogers and more. The action begins tomorrow at the Royal Naval Dockyard—so stay tuned for concert updates over the next three days—but musicians have already begun to trickle in. Just last night I had dinner at Jasmine’s, a tapas lounge in the lobby of the elegant Fairmont Southampton, when none other than Quincy Jones himself strolled in with a small entourage. He ordered a thin crust pizza and sat in a quiet corner of the restaurant, no doubt charging his batteries for what’s sure to be a spirited show. That or he was gearing up for tonight’s big event, the world premiere of Michael Jackson’s “This is It,” which will be shown at Bermuda’s own Liberty Theatre after a pink carpet arrival (Yes, pink. This is Bermuda after all). High-profile guests include singers Patti Austin and James Ingram, plus Q himself—a worthy invitee considering he produced Michael’s Jackson’s Thriller 25 years ago. Tickets to the film's world premiere are sold out, but there’s still time to buy tickets to the music festival, which opens its doors at 6pm tomorrow. For more information, go to the Bermuda Music Festival’s official website. See ya at the show!

And the Award Goes To...

Break out the tuxedos and roll out the red carpet because it’s time to hand out a pair of awards—and not just from little old me. Last week Bermuda was named the top island in the Atlantic and Caribbean by the readers of Condé Nast Traveler ahead of verdant St. John, ritzy St. Barts, and the luxurious British Virigin Islands. Even the isles further down the list are contenders for number one: Turks and Caicos with its stunning white sand beaches, St. Lucia with its mighty volcanic peaks, and rollicking Nevis, home of Sunshine’s Beach Bar and the potent Killer Bee cocktail (Looking for a laid-back reggae beach party? Tell Sunshine I sent ya’). Equally high praises went to The Reefs in Southampton (see above; that's sunset from the hotel's patio). The beachfront hotel was voted the best resort in the Atlantic, a bit of a surprise considering two of Bermuda’s most-loved resorts—the Fairmont Southampton and Cambridge Beaches in Somerset—took eighth and tenth place on the list, respectively. But I imagine Condé Nast Traveler’s readers know a thing or two about a thing or two. After all, 25,000 readers can’t be wrong. That and The Reefs just spent millions of dollars renovating two of its three restaurants, building a brand new spa, and adding a fractional ownership wing featuring rooms with private balconies and a jaw-dropping ocean view infinity pool. So you’d like to visit the best island in the Atlantic and Caribbean, you say? And don’t want to spend a fortune? The Fairmont Southampton has rooms for $199 a night for stays through April 15, 2010 (for more go here). And the aforementioned Cambridge Beaches & Spa is offering a fourth night free for four-night stays through December 31, 2009. Considering the weather will be a balmy 70 degrees during winter, it’ll be a perfect time of year to pull out those golf clubs or hit the spa. Hmmm, with all that golf excitement last week I think it's time for a massage.

Cabrera Loses...Twice

Angel Cabrera must be especially teed off this morning. Not only did the Masters champion lose by five strokes to U.S. Open champion Lucas Glover at the 2009 PGA Grand Slam of Golf—a difference of $300,000—but the Argentine was disqualified from the Castello Masters in Spain, an event he tried to play nearly 24 hours after losing at Port Royal. So why the DQ? According to the Associated Press, Cabrera’s flight was delayed from Bermuda due to strong winds at L.F. Wade International Airport, an unfortunate although common occurrence that most of us islanders have dealt with at some time or another. Not even a private helicopter upon landing could get Cabrera to the course on time, all but ruining his chances to collect a piece of the $2 million purse. If his gruff treatment of his Grand Slam caddie is any indication, I have a feeling El Pato gave the pilot, and anyone else who would listen, a good piece of his mind. His beloved nickname may mean "The Duck" in Spanish, but my vote is for El Toro. I'm guessing you know what that one means.

VIDEO: Lucas Glover Wins!

The 2009 PGA Grand Slam of Golf ended with a roar on Port Royal's 18th hole, where U.S. Open champion Lucas Glover won the tournament by a commanding six strokes. Turn up the volume and watch his final approach here, or to see it in fullscreen, watch it on YouTube. It'll be another year before the Grand Slam returns to Bermuda, but until then, the famed Pink Jacket is Glover's and Glover's alone—a worthy champion of a world-class tournament.

VIDEO: Port Royal's 16th Hole

Widely regarded as one of the greatest holes in golf—and certainly one of the most scenic—Port Royal’s sixteenth hole proved a worthy challenge at yesterday’s opening day of play at the 2009 PGA Grand Slam of Golf. The 235-yard, par three looked as stunning as ever, but not before claiming two bogeys (Angel Cabrera and Lucas Glover) and two well-earned pars (Stewart Cink and Y.E. Yang). For an exclusive look at how yesterday’s 16th hole played for all four champions watch this short video, shot and edited by yours truly. Make sure to turn up the volume and to view it on fullscreen, watch it on YouTube. When you're done—and if you've got a few minutes to noodle around—check out this game that simulates Port Royal's signature hole (click on the right side that says "Slam Dunk" and see if you can get it on the green). After round one, Lucas Glover leads the pack with six under par. Will he hold on to win his first PGA Grand Slam of Golf and Bermuda's very own Pink Jacket? Tune in tomorrow to find out!

VIDEO EXCLUSIVE: PGA Grand Slam Champions Clinic

The big story from yesterday’s pro-am round at the PGA Grand Slam of Golf was the weather: Thick sheets of rain blanketed Port Royal golf course for the majority of the day making the informal, pre-tourney tournament all but impossible to complete. The good news is the rain held off long enough to capture all four champions demonstrating the shots that won them major titles in 2009 on Port Royal's 17th green. PGA champion Y.E. Yang recreated his chip-in from the fringe at the 14th hole in Hazeltine, where he upset Tiger Woods to become the first Asian golfer to win a major. Next, although he didn't find many bunkers while competing at Bethpage Black in June, U.S. Open champion Lucas Glover swung from the sand, a shot he’s remembered for holing at the Disney Classic where he won his first PGA Tour title in 2005. British Open champion Stewark Cink drained a fifteen-foot putt, reminiscent of his birdie on the 72nd hole at Turnberry, where he eventually won the Claret Jug in a playoff against golf legend Tom Watson. And finally, Masters Champion Angel Cabrera set up 95 yards from the pin demonstrating how to spin the pitching wedge, a precision short game he gave much credit to for winning him the green jacket in April. For an exclusive look at yesterday’s clinic, click the play button on the video above. (Production note: the color's a bit off so you can blame my camera, not Bermuda). In the meantime stay tuned for continued updates from the 2009 Grand Slam of Golf. Official tournament play starts today at 10:30 am and the skies are looking bright and clear. To the links!

SPECIAL REPORT: PGA Grand Slam of Golf

There’s been quite a buzz surrounding this year’s PGA Grand Slam of Golf, a two-day tournament that begins tomorrow after an informal pro-am round today. Not only will it feature four of the best golfers in the world—including Masters champion Angel Cabrera, British Open champion Stewart Cink, U.S. Open Champion Lucas Glover, and PGA Champion Y.E. Yang—but it’s being played at Port Royal, Bermuda’s Robert Trent Jones-designed course that recently underwent a $14.5 million makeover. With TifEagle greens, a state-of-the-art irrigation system and water views from nearly every hole it’s arguably Bermuda’s finest course, one that will be on full display when the respective champions tee off tomorrow morning (watch the tournament on TNT from 4-7pm EST on Tuesday and 5-9pm EST on Wednesday). In the meantime keep reading Bermuda Shorts over the next three days for special news and video updates from the course. Today’s highlight? The four Major Champions will be hosting a short game clinic on the 17^th green, to be broadcast on the Golf Channel later this evening. For exclusive video clips, keep it right here. Fore!

Curtain Call

Among the wishful, including those who dream of a life in the islands are the doubtful, naysayers who proclaim there’s just nothing to do except lay on a beach. Not that there’s anything wrong with that. But if my night at City Hall Theatre is any indication, those aforementioned curmudgeons should start looking into island real estate, pronto. Who says there’s no culture in Bermuda? Last night I attended the Gilbert & Sullivan production of Oliver!—based on the Charles Dickens novel, the musical follows a young orphan who hooks up with a gang of hooligans only to be rescued by an older Daddy Warbucks type who realizes the boy is indeed his grandson. To be honest, I wasn’t expecting much from the community production, even after I paid a whopping $55 a ticket. But after watching Act One with its rousing opener, Food Glorious Food, sung by a troupe of adorable schoolchildren with real and/or faked English accents, I couldn’t wait for Act Two. (That, plus I was genuinely eager to see how my drinks would magically appear at intermission after I pre-ordered them before the show. What genius!). Highlights included Emma Muggleton’s Nancy—whose powerhouse performance of As Long As He Needs Me got the night’s loudest applause—and eleven-year-old Rian Michelsen, who captured the hopeful spirit of orphaned Oliver to a tee. Special accolades go to set designer Cleo Pettitt, who with the help of her astute design team created believable reproductions of old school London including dark city streets, bright town squares, and antique-adorned homes. Even the lighting was right on: During Act Two’s Who Will Buy?—a song that was expertly-harmonized by Oliver and company—a span of light shone from above illuminating Oliver’s face as if the sun had found its way indoors. All in all an impressive performance, although I just wish I was around for last year’s production of the Full Monty. Nudity, in Bermuda? Now that would be a sight to see.

R.I.P. Mid-Ocean News

It was bound to happen. United States newspapers have been in a drastic state of decline this year, with papers including the Seattle Post-Intelligencer, Rocky Mountain News, and the veritable Tucson Citizen closing its doors due to poor financing and lack of revenues. It seems like there are more cuts to come too: According to this report from Time, the days are numbered for the San Francisco Chronicle, Philadelphia Daily News, and the Miami Herald as well, which would no doubt be a major blow to those cities. Imagine waking up in a major U.S. metropolis with no local newspaper to read with your morning coffee? For shame! The New York Daily News is on Time’s list of America’s most endangered newspapers too, bad news for my well-read father who’d rather turn the pages of the phone book than the trashy tabloid that is the New York Post. Sure, the New York Times would still be around, but munching on coffee cake over a broadsheet without columns by sportswriter Mike Lupica just isn't the same. It’s no wonder then that Bermuda’s newspapers are suffering too, the latest casualty being the Mid-Ocean News, a weekend paper that was founded in 1911. The newspaper announced yesterday that it would cease publication immediately, a move that its board blamed on “continuing and significant operating losses” in a tough economic climate. Blame it on the Internet, declining ad sales, the economy—a mix of all three, perhaps—but the announcement comes to the chagrin of many Bermudians, certainly those who enjoyed balanced community reporting (and the television guide it published called TV Week, although I hear the popular section will live on elsewhere). It's sad, really. Just the other day I was in the local food market when a kindly old lady asked the cashier for the papers upon checkout. “Give me all three, dear,” she said sweetly. But with just the Royal Gazette and the Bermuda Sun left, I guess next time she’ll be asking for two.

Hip, Hip, Hooray!

Recognize that sail? I sure do. As my faithful readers may remember, that colorful canvas is part of the Ana Luna, a 45-foot catamaran I wrote about sailing on last month—admittedly my new favorite excursion in all of Bermuda. In addition to sunset dinner cruises and daysails around the east end of the island, the boat is also available for SCUBA dives on many of Bermuda's wrecks and reefs. So why did this picture appear in the Bermuda Sun last week and who are those guys smiling for the camera? They’re the Uighurs! (Pronounced wee-gers for all you wondering out there). In case you hadn’t heard, these four men were brought to Bermuda in June after being detained in Guantánamo Bay for nearly seven years. As I alluded to yesterday, there was much ado about bringing the former detainees here, a debate that I’d rather not enter in. But for all the hoo-hah surrounding their arrival it’s nice to see someone reaching out and giving them a hand. So cheers to you, Captain Nathan Worswick of the Ana Luna, for giving Bermuda’s newest residents an experience to remember for a lifetime. Your spirit, goodwill, and generosity are what make living in this island community such a pleasure. Well done, sir.

Here Comes The Queen

With four centuries of history to celebrate you’d think Queen Elizabeth would’ve paid England’s oldest existing colony a visit a little sooner, but hey, better late than never right? According to recent reports in the Royal Gazette and Bermuda Sun, the Queen will be commemorating the 400^th anniversary of the settlement of Bermuda from November 24th through the 26th, a three-day trip right here on our very own mid-Atlantic archipelago. It’s a much-anticipated visit and one that was rumored to be cancelled altogether because of backroom dealings that sent four former Guantanamo Bay detainees to live here in Bermuda. I won’t get into the politics of it all, but let’s just say that island residents and British officials weren’t terribly pleased with the results. Details of the royal visit have yet to be unveiled but I’m guessing there’ll be lots of tea sipping and stately motorcade waving—in between likeness appreciation days, of course. You see, the Queen’s picture is just everywhere here in Bermuda. Arrive at L.F. Wade International Airport and you’ll be greeted by a nearly life-sized portrait of Her Majesty hanging above the immigration checkpoint. And there she is again, in the Gold Lounge of the wonderfully historic Fairmont Hamilton Princess, where my wife and I enjoyed fireside cocktails earlier this year (see above). She’s on all of Bermuda’s money too, or at least used to be until the monetary authority phased in newer cash with colorful pictures of long-tailed tropic birds, whistling frogs, and blue angel fish. And then of course there are Bermuda’s coins: Pennies, nickels, dimes, quarters, and dollars all with her, albeit much younger, profile. All perks of the job I suppose, although considering she’s been the royal leader for nearly sixty years, I guess she can put her kisser on whatever she’d like. For her sake, I hope it finds a bowl of Bermuda fish chowder at the Hog Penny. Because Your Majesty, it's just that good.

Knucklehead of the Day

Imagine this: You’re headed to Bermuda for a quick weekend getaway and inside your carry-on bag, among the small pack of Kleenex tissues and the overpriced designer lipstick, are eleven bullets you just happened to throw inside it months earlier. Apparently you did this when said bullets fell from your storage closet and you wanted to hide them from a handyman who was tooling around your Oyster Bay home, so you scooped them up and popped them in your purse. No harm done really, except you forgot to take them out then planned a weekend golfing vacation in Bermuda purse in tow. Somehow you got through security at JFK (nice work, TSA) and to your delight played eighteen holes at Mid Ocean Golf Club, but when you tried to board a JetBlue flight on the way back you were arrested for attempting to fly with illegal cargo. Knucklehead, much? I won’t disparage anyone for having a firing range in their basement—although that’s not really my cup of tea—but to think folks are flying the friendly skies with live ammunition in their bags is a bit disconcerting. Fortunately for the bullet smuggler she was acquitted on all charges after a three-day trial last week. “If I had remembered I had put [the bullets] in there I never would have brought them here,” said the accused, Lucy Stackler. “I’m not that crazy.” Sorry lady, but I beg the differ. You crazy. You very, very crazy.

Newsflash

There’s lots of news from Bermuda today, the most exciting of which comes from Fairmont Hotels & Resorts. Welcome to shoulder season folks, when the weather is warm and the prices are low. For seven days only, rooms at the ritzy Fairmont Southampton on Bermuda’s stunning south shore start at $149 per night for stays between November 21, 2009 until April 16, 2010. But you’ve gotta act fast: Sale prices are valid when booked by October 13 (that’s next Tuesday). Best of all, the price includes breakfast daily and unlimited golf at the hotel’s water view executive par three course (cart rental not included). Considering rooms at the hotel cost around $500 and above during peak season, it’s a steal of a deal. For more information, visit Fairmont’s website. In other news, Port Royal Golf Course is gearing up to host the PGA Grand Slam of Golf on October 20-21, which will feature British Open champion Stewart Cink, Masters champion Angel Cabrera, U.S. Open champion Lucas Glover, and PGA champion Y.E. Yang, the first Asian golfer to win a major. In case you hadn’t heard Port Royal is arguably Bermuda’s finest course, having just undergone a $14 million renovation with sweeping water views and a hole that’s widely regarded as the greatest in golf. Spoiler alert: It's the sixteenth. (Got a few minutes to goof off? Check out this game that simulates the infamous hole; click on the right side that says “Slam Dunk” and see if you can get it on the green). Finally, Hamilton is abuzz with the unveiling of its new Heritage Walk, a two-hour self-guided walking tour that takes visitors past bronzed plaques explaining important sites of architectural, historical, and cultural significance in the City of Hamilton. Pick up a foldout map at City Hall on Church Street where the walk begins just out front. Need a boost before your walk? Drop by Juice ‘n Beans on the corner of Front and Burnaby Streets for the best ice coffee in town.

I Get By With...

What’s so great about living in Bermuda you ask? Beyond the completely obvious—beachy autumn weekends, yellow-breasted kiskadees, potent rum swizzles—it’s the opportunity to share my tropical home with visiting friends and family. My faithful readers will remember when I visited the Bermuda Aquarium with my nieces in July or when I explored historic St. Peter’s Church with my family priest. Originally built in 1612—then rebuilt 100 years later after it was destroyed by a hurricane—it’s the oldest continually used church in the Western Hemisphere, a fact that would’ve gone unnoticed had he and his family not dropped by. When my brothers-in-law recently paid a visit we all had a blast aboard the Ana Luna, a 44-foot catamaran chartered for a day sail around the island's east end. Thanks to them I discovered parts of my new home that I'd never seen: The fort at Castle Harbour, secluded wrecks teeming with marine life, and best of all, the stunning Bermuda coastline. So when one of my oldest friends decided to hop a flight from New York how could I protest? In town for a quick weekend, he and his girlfriend saw more of Bermuda than most people see in a whole week. Although much of that can be chalked up to his good planning—like when he arranged for a surprise excursion to go swimming with dolphins. The pre-trip conversation went something like this. Him: “Dave, do they have dolphins in Bermuda?” Me: “Umm, I’m not sure. You mean like dolphin fish? To eat?” Him: “Naaah, to swim with!” Me: “I dunno. Maybe?” Him: “Well let’s see if we can find some dolphins. Everywhere I go there are no dolphins. Did I mention that we really wanna swim with dolphins?” And that’s how we found Dolphin Quest in the Royal Naval Dockyard, by far one coolest places to spend a morning. With three programs to choose from (ranging from the expensive to the very expensive) Dolphin Quest had them in the water by 10 a.m. and swimming alongside the playful mammals by 10:15. About an hour later it was all over, but not before plenty of laughs and wide-eyed smiles. I’m not sure why, but there’s something about dolphins that just make people happy. Maybe it’s their cheerful demeanor or their amazing capacity to learn, whatever it is, I’m just glad I got to see it all with my own eyes—with a little help from my friends, of course.

The Friday Roundup

In case you missed it, this week I connected the dots between New York Mayor Mike Bloomberg, former Presidential candidate Ross Perot, and on-again off-again Italian Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi (spoiler alert: They all live in a ritzy Bermuda neighborhood called Tucker’s Town); I shamelessly self-promoted my latest article in the New York Times travel section, 36 Hours in Bermuda (thanks to everyone for all the kind words); told you about a short-lived JetBlue sale and ways to save at the Bermuda Music Festival (30% off tickets if you book through Expedia); and spilled the beans on my favorite new bar, The Frog & Onion Pub at the Royal Naval Dockyard, where I drank my fair share of Somer’s Amber Ale (yummy, hoppy, goodness). What I didn’t tell you about was this lovely rainbow that appeared over the Great South Bay early Monday morning. Awake earlier than normal, I climbed up my stairs only to be greeted by this stunning double arch (look closely and you can see the second one forming just behind the first one). As my neighbor poignantly said before he zipped away on his scooter, it was one of those “Bermuda doesn’t suck” moments. I couldn’t agree more, although with its endless coastlines, palm trees near pine trees, and happy day mentality, it’s hard to find much to complain about here. Sure, folks who’ve lived in Bermuda for awhile will warn you about island fever, that inevitable moment when you Just. Have. To. Leave. But I imagine the same is true for any small town. Find me a person that’s spent over a year in Ames, Iowa without going nuts. Good luck. So to all those naysayers out there, I say turn your eyes to the sky. Looks like it’s gonna be yet another beautiful day in Bermuda.